The one thing that will stay with you for life is that first glimpse of the Taj – there’s nothing quite like it,” said my guide, Manohar Singh, as we walked towards the eastern gate of the mausoleum.

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So deeply embedded was this tradition that during the brief reign of Bahadur Shah Zafar, Nauroz continued to be celebrated, even when his authority did not extend beyond the walls of the Red Fort.

The formidable fortifications watched centuries go by. The remains are reminders and relics of the city’s many pasts.