Betel nut – or buai – is everywhere in Papua New Guinea. It is the seed of the Areca nut, wrapped in betel leaf and chewed until you feel a surge of energy. It has plenty of ceremonial uses, but for everyday chewers, this is a recreational activity. However, it's addictive — even deadly. So deadly the government has tried to ban it. That's not such a simple task given the informal economy flourishing around betel nut has given many families financial stability — especially in rural areas. So, ho